Have you ever thought of visiting Phnom Penh?
Although Siem Reap with its incredible Khmer heritage is definitely on the top list for all Asian travellers, the capital of Cambodia is still worth a visit!
Check my list of locations to see there – and of course, buy krama scarf, try amok and have a look at the mighty Mekong river!
1. Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda
The Royal Palace is the official residence of the King of Cambodia: you can tell if the King is in residence by whether a large blue flag is raised!.
Cambodia has maintained its ancient royal family till our days even while being ruled by the French from 1863 until 1953. However, the second half of the 20th century was extremely turbulent for the country — especially during the civil war and the bloodiest period of the Khmer Rouge’s communist regime — so the monarchy was restored only in 1993.
The Palace has a vast territory with many buildings (photography is limited inside a few of them), including a magnificent Throne Hall used for coronations and official ceremonies, as well as a few small museums.
Another famous building here is the Silver Pagoda, named for the silver tiles covering its entire floor! This temple is officially called Wat Ubosot Ratanaram, or Preah Vihear Preah Keo Morakot. Inside, you can find many religious treasures, including a magnificent Emerald Buddha and a human-sized gold Buddha adorned with numerous shiny diamonds. The glass caskets framing the walls contain many other figures as well. Photography is not allowed there.
You can also spot a gray building with a clock and intricate metal framework: it’s Prasat Dek, possibly the oldest still-standing building in the palace (others were damaged by the Khmer Rouge). According to our palace guide, it was a gift from Napoleon III and was brought here from Africa (as I understand, the French built it to celebrate the opening of Suez Canal and brought it here afterwards).
Don’t miss the Kraal, or the place where the Royal White Elephants were kept. Cambodian royalty took great pride in their rare white elephants, which they bred for centuries. Sadly, these elephants died out during the turbulent times of the late 20th century. Our local guide mentioned that the Khmer Rouge killed and ate the last animals to showcase their power, but I cannot verify that.
There are also murals along the colonnaded courtyards and stupas containing royal ashes. You can spot some trees blooming with giant red flowers around the palace – it’s Pentacme Siamensis, or red meranti tree!
Overall, we enjoyed our visit immensely: the palace looks impressive, it’s not nearly as crowded as the Grand Palace in Bangkok, and there is a lot of history behind it! And there are lot’s of small separate buildings with valued items on display you shouldn’t miss.
Dress respectfully (with knees and shoulders covered) and check the opening times in advance (I believe they are closed from 11 AM to 2 PM).
Unfortunately, the Royal Park nearby was closed to the public during our visit.
2. The National Museum of Cambodia
Our next stop is the National Museum of Cambodia, the largest museum in the country.
The museum is located inside a gorgeous burgundy building with several lily ponds, a shop, and a café. Photography is limited here; you can only take photos from the outside or in the courtyard.
The museum houses an amazing collection of archaeological stone and metal artifacts, dating from pre-Angkor times to more modern periods, and covers local arts and crafts as well as the issue of Cambodian heritage looting.
3. Wat Phnom
If you’re looking for religious buildings in Phnom Penh, Wat Phnom should be high on your list! This Buddhist temple stands 27 meters high on a hill, with the entire structure reaching 46 meters in height.
Legend has it that precious religious statues were found by a local woman in a tree trunk nearby, and they were placed on this artificial hill. You can also see a large white stupa here, built for King Ponhea Yat.
4. Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum (S-21)
If you feel strong enough, visit the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum, a former school transformed into Security Prison 21, one of the prisons and torture centers established by the Khmer Rouge during their rule.
Over 18,000 people were detained, tortured, and died here between 1976 and 1979, with only a dozen survivors (we saw two of them sitting in the courtyard, old and tired, with their relatives selling books to earn some money). Overall, about one-quarter of the Cambodian population perished under the Khmer Rouge.
The museum consists of several three-story buildings with separate rooms where you can learn about the victims of communism from all over the country. For a deeper understanding, consider taking an audio guide.
If you’d like to learn more about Pol Pot and the Khmer Rouge, you can also take a half-day trip from Phnom Penh to Choeung Ek (The Killing Fields).
5. Independence Monument
The Independence Monument, built from 1958 to 1962 to celebrate Cambodia’s liberation from French rule in 1953, is made in the same color as the National Museum: a dark red. It combines traditional and religious elements and is definitely one of the most symbolic landmarks of the capital.
6. Wat Ounalom
Wat Ounalom is a large monastery consisting of 44 buildings and located close to the Royal Palace.
Founded in 1433 by King Ponhea Yat, the last king of the Khmer Empire, it is the most important site for Buddhists in the country and serves as the headquarters of the Buddhist patriarchate. The main relic here is said to be an eyebrow hair of the Buddha himself (hence the name Ounalom) which is kept in the main stupa.
Check the opening hours in advance; we were only able to see it from the outside (however it was still impressive!).
After your visit, take a walk along the riverfront and Sisowath Quay, where the Tonle Sap, Mekong, and Bassac Rivers merge together.
7. Sosoro Museum
Sosoro Museum showcases the history of Cambodia by exploring its monetary system and economy throughout different periods. For instance, during the Funan Kingdom, they already had some gold coins. However, for some reason, during the Angkor Kingdom’s rule, no money was used at all, and the monetary system was reintroduced only when the French arrived in the country.
Can you believe that in the 1970s, the Khmer Rouge communists abolished the monetary system again? It’s no wonder the country collapsed. Photography is not allowed inside, but the museum is extremely modern and well-designed, with numerous interactive panels and videos. Don’t miss it!
8. Central Market
Central Market (Phsa Thmei) was built in 1937, designed by French architect Jean Desbois and supervised by Louis Chauchon and Wladimir Kandaouroff.
Its impressive yellow dome was a landmark back in the day! Nowadays, it’s more of a tourist market selling cheap jewelry and fake watches inside.
Outside, it’s a busy market too selling with souvenirs, clothes, flowers and food.
9. Monkey Temple
The Monkey Temple is located on an island between the Tonle Sap River and the Mekong River, named for the monkeys that live there! You can see one in the photos.
If you’re not a fan of monkeys, you can easily skip this site, as the area around the temple doesn’t feel very safe, and the temple is more of a cemetery. However, you might capture some great photos of monkeys on a bodhi tree there!
10. Raffles Hotel Le Royal
Raffles Hotel Le Royal is a historic hotel that opened in 1929 in the center of Phnom Penh, exuding distinctive French colonial vibes combined with Khmer heritage.
It definitely should be one of your top choices in the Cambodian capital because it’s a stunning property located in the very centre of Phnom Penh, with a few restaurants, an outdoor area and a great service (and we even encountered some new friends here!)
Just look at the color coordination, shutters, and furniture design!
The pictures decorating the room depict the temples of Angkor, a unique Cambodian heritage we’ll be visiting soon. And yes, George got the cutest crocheted elephant!
They also have an outdoor pool and pretty colour-coordinated breakfast area (in the evening it’s open as Le Phnom restaurant). Sadly, there was no buffet at all but you could get everything you need for a french-inspired or khmer-related meal from the menu.
Elephant Bar
Our hotel, the Raffles, is home to the famous Elephant Bar!
The Elephant Bar is one of the most iconic places in Phnom Penh – not only for its elegantly themed interior and extensive gin collection but also for its illustrious guests: Jacqueline Kennedy (the Femme Fatale cocktail was created for her here), Somerset Maugham, and Charlie Chaplin.
We enjoyed two afternoon teas there in the Elephant Bar: one Western and one Khmer. It was a great selection of flavors and textures in a luxurious environment — a must!
Le Phnom 1929
At the Raffles, we also dined at the amazing restaurant Le Phnom 1929, which offers both French and Cambodian cuisine. We tried fresh rolls, salmon tartare, Phnom Penh fried noodles, and, of course, the Amok (lobster version, not fish), probably the most famous dish of Cambodia!
You might also like my other blogs about Asia.
Hope you liked my blog!
Yours, Anna
Xxxx
