San Juan is the main city of Puerto Rico, an unincorporated American territory, and it became the first place in the Caribbean I came to explore!
We stayed in the best hotel on the island, the Dorado Beach Ritz Carlton Reserve, and I’ll have a few words to say about our stay in this article too.
Although I cover more than just San Juan in this article, there are many more activities to do in Puerto Rico (unfortunately, I sprained an ankle, which made us cancel some of the activities we had planned, but just to spice up curiosity, let me mention the bioluminescent bays, snorkeling with turtles and manatees, and El Yunque rainforest with its tower and waterfalls).
San Juan City: bits of history
Originally, the island of Borikén (the old name of Puerto Rico) was inhabited by the indigenous Taíno population.
However, Christopher Columbus arrived here in 1493 during his second voyage to the New World. In the 16th century, it was fully included in the Spanish Empire through conquest by Juan Ponce de León in 1508 and became a vital settlement in their colonization of the region.
The Spanish controlled the island until they lost it to the US at the end of the 19th century, and Puerto Rico became an unincorporated territory: it’s not a state, people here don’t vote for the American government, and the tax system is separate from the US one. They have their own flag as well.
What to See in San Juan
1. Castillo San Felipe del Morro
Castillo San Felipe del Morro, or simply El Morro, is probably the most famous historical landmark of Old San Juan.
The fort El Moro was commissioned by Spanish King Charles I in 1539; the actual construction started in 1589, and El Morro was expanded over time. It was considered the gateway to the New World by Europeans, and it comes as no surprise that the British tried to seize it on several occasions, but in vain.
El Morro continued its duty as a protective fortress and a prison (for instance, the famous Puerto Rican pirate El Pirata Cofresí was executed for his crimes here for centuries). After the Spanish–American War in 1898, Spain ceded its overseas territories, such as Puerto Rico and the Philippines, to the winning side.
The fort continued operating as a military institution during WWI and WWII; the shot on 21 March 1941 from it to a German cargo liner is considered the first shot of the USA in WWII. The army left the fort in 1961, and since 1983, it has been a UNESCO World Heritage site. You can visit the fort and enjoy the view from its several levels, learn about its history through an educational movie, see some cannons, and visit the lighthouse. Santa Elena Bastion, Polvorin, and a park where kite enthusiasts gather are located around the fort.
2. Castillo San Cristóbal
Another defensive structure of San Juan is Castillo San Cristóbal, named after the patron saint of travellers.
It was built in 1634 and is the largest fortification erected by the Spanish in the New World! It’s really huge! Come here to admire the views, observe various cannons, and learn about the history of attacks on Puerto Rico.
You can buy a combined ticket for both forts.
3. Museo de las Américas
Visit El Cuartel de Ballajá, where the Museo de las Américas is located.
Sadly, some of the museum halls were closed during our visit.
However, we still explored the exhibitions about the indigenous communities of the Americas, the Spanish conquest, the African heritage of Puerto Rico, and various traditions and festivities from the Americas.
Right next to El Cuartel de Ballajá, there’s a tiny artisan market with handmade jewelry and food.
We bought juices served in fresh pineapples and watermelons, with the inner parts removed and served in a separate box.
4. Cathedral of Saint John the Baptist
The Metropolitan Cathedral Basilica of Saint John the Baptist is the main church of San Juan.
Its construction started in 1532, making it one of the oldest cathedrals in both Americas! Make sure to see the National Shrine of Our Lady of Providence, the main patron saint of Puerto Rico. Also, don’t miss the Altar to the Fatherland and the final burial place of Juan Ponce de León, the first governor of Puerto Rico.
5. Capilla del Santo Cristo
Don’t miss Capilla del Santo Cristo de la Salud, or the Chapel of Christ, located near the cathedral; it’s one of the symbols of Puerto Rico.
It dates back to the 18th century, and its altar is made of precious metals. You can also spot religious images by José Campeche y Jordán there; he’s an important painter of the 18th century who is considered one of the first Puerto Rican artists.
6. Park of the Pigeons
To the side of the Chapel of Christ, you can spot one of the most unusual landmarks of San Juan: it’s a park of pigeons, or Parque de las Palomas.
Feeding pigeons is forbidden in the entire city except for this tiny square, where you can legally buy pigeon food and feed the birds! Of course, not every person wants to feed the pigeons, but especially if you’re traveling with small kids, this might be an enjoyable activity for you. The birds here are not shy at all.
7. Paseo de la Princesa
If you have time, spend a little while walking the Paseo de la Princesa, built in the mid-19th century and dedicated to Infanta Isabel of Spain, Princess of Asturias.
It’s a beautiful promenade leading you along the lovely coastline of the city and the Walls of Old San Juan, passing by many historical landmarks, such as fountains, an old prison, and the old gates of Puerto de San Juan.
8. La Plaza del Quinto Centenario
La Plaza del Quinto Centenario (the square of the 500th anniversary) is sometimes referred to as the Square of Totem. It’s dedicated to the 500-year anniversary since Columbus arrived in this part of the world.
9. Casa Blanca
Be sure to visit one of the most historically significant remnants of the Spanish control over Puerto Rico, Casa Blanca, or the White House.
This building was constructed in the 1520s for Juan Ponce de León, the first governor of Puerto Rico I’ve mentioned a few times, and Ponce de León’s family and descendants lived here until the late 18th century. It has changed owners numerous times since then and has been rebuilt on a few occasions.
However, it is now open as a museum. Casa Blanca overlooks San Juan Bay, and the views from it are incredible!
10. San José Church
San José Church, or Iglesia de San José, is one of the earliest surviving architectural sites built by the Spanish Empire in the Western Hemisphere. It was part of a monastery established under the name of the Church and Convent of Santo Tomás de Aquino in 1532, where the National Gallery is now located.
The first Spanish governor of Puerto Rico, Juan Ponce de León, was also buried in this church from the mid-16th century to the mid-19th century when his remains were transferred to the San Juan Cathedral. The church looks modest from the outside, but it was restored – pop inside to see the religious objects and the golden altar kept there!
11. Museum of San Juan
The Museum of San Juan is located in a historical market hall building with an arched courtyard. We visited an exhibition featuring musical instruments and religious art produced by both Spanish and Puerto Rican artists of the past.
More exhibitions will likely be open during your visit because there were a few exhibition halls under refurbishment during our trip. You can also visit the Museum of Art of Puerto Rico if you’re into museums.
12. Plaza Colón
Close to Castillo San Cristóbal, you’ll see Plaza Colón, or Columbus Square, with Tapia Theater, souvenir shops, and restaurants.
The Starbucks café is also located nearby. In the past, it was known as Plaza Santiago, as one of the old city gates called Puerta de Santiago was located here, but now it’s dedicated to Christopher Columbus, who arrived in Puerto Rico in 1493.
13. La Fortaleza
You can also observe from afar La Fortaleza, also known as Saint Catherine’s Palace. Originally built in the 16th century as the first fortress in Puerto Rico playing a strategic defensive function, it has been remodeled and is now the official residence of the Governor of Puerto Rico.
14. Capitolio de Puerto Rico
You’ll probably notice this magnificent building on your way to the old part of the city. This is Capitolio de Puerto Rico, located just outside Old San Juan, the seat of the Legislative Assembly of Puerto Rico. It was erected in the early part of the 20th century.
15. La Barrachina
Pay a visit to the birthplace of Piña Colada, one of the most popular cocktails in the world (one of my favourites).
In 1963, Spanish bartender Don Ramón Portas Mingot came up with the idea to mix coconut cream, pineapple juice, rum, and ice, and of course, we had to try it! Yes, there was a short queue (about 10 minutes), but it was totally worth it; the original cocktail is amazing! We actually had lunch there: Puerto Rican fried delicacies for starters and various fish (grouper and salmon) with arroz blanco and beans for the main courses.
16. Best Photo Spots
The streets of San Juan were born to be featured on Instagram – so colourful and photogenic!
There are lots of bright walls in San Juan, but for the most Instagram-worthy shots, come to Callejón de la Puerta con la Bandera, Calle de la Fortaleza (usually decorated with umbrellas; during our visit, it was sparkling with colourful plastic strings), and Caleta de San Juan.
Come and unleash your inner instagrammer!
Beyond San Juan
17. Cathedral of Rum: Casa Bacardi
It doesn’t come as a surprise that the Caribbean is famous for its rum, and Bacardi is one of the most famous rum brands! The brand’s roots actually go back to 1862’s Cuba, but Cataña, Puerto Rico, is home to The Cathedral of Rum, the world’s largest rum distillery, where large amounts of Bacardi are produced.
You can attend one of the tours of the Casa Bacardi distillery, the pavilion bar, and the visitor center with a shop. Those under 18 cannot attend the tour but can be with a responsible adult in other areas.
I actually planned to attend a tour and leave George with my husband, but unfortunately, we didn’t make it; we arrived 15 minutes before the tour started and were told that they could not issue more tickets even though there were still spots available, and the next English tour was only in two hours. So we just visited the outside area, the bar, and the shop.
18. Dorado Town
We also made a quick exploration of Dorado town.
It’s actually pretty old and dates back to the 18th century.
There are lots of shops, cafes, and restaurants – we had lunch at Katrina’s.
The beach is absolutely gorgeous, exactly what you would expect from the Caribbean – and say hi to the monk parakeets that live there too.
Where to Stay: Dorado Beach Ritz Carlton Reserve
During our trip to Puerto Rico, we stayed at the Dorado Beach Ritz Carlton Reserve.
Actually, our accommodation was just incredible: it was a spacious Oceanfront suite with a private heated pool overlooking the ocean.
Puerto Rico is famous for its rum, so, apart from the usual welcome fruits, guests of Dorado beach reserve receive a rum tasting experience upon check-in.
You can also request bicycles for moving around the hotel or just ask for a buggy.
The territory of the hotel is enormous: there is a golf club, a library, a few restaurants, a spa, and a kids club.
On weekends, the waterpark is also open at our hotel – and of course, we had to visit! It mainly features a lazy river, but kids love it.
The beach area looks quite dreamy, with palms and turquoise waters all around. The entire area of the hotel is very well maintained, with a perfect tropical vibe.
Numerous lizards and iguanas, and a few species of coquí frogs are living right by the rooms.
Coquí frogs are native to Puerto Rico and one of its symbols, and it makes the co-kee sound! I’m proud to say that I was able to locate numerous coquí frogs during our stay.
To deepen our coquí experience, we went on a nearby swamp forest tour with a local guide provided by the hotel – unfortunately, on that day, we didn’t find any coquí frogs there, as they were deep in the trees (we found two near our room again, though). However, we had an unexpected guest land on us: Ignelater luminosus, or cucubano, a local bioluminescent click beetle! Sadly, this experience left me with a sprained ankle, as there was no light at all, and we were walking not only on the paths but also off the paths and through mud.
Eating options
We visited a few restaurants on the hotel premises.
The restaurant called Encanto serves great seafood and meat – just look at the mahi ceviche and scallops.
Next, we had a great dinner at the Japanese-inspired restaurant Positivo. It sits right on the sand by the beach, and the aesthetics of it were great, not to mention the fried rice, rolls, and pandan cake.
After that, we also visited the Coa restaurant, where breakfast is served. Their selection of meat and fish dishes was really good!
Finally, we had dinner at Su Casa restaurant, which specialises in Japanese cuisine – they have probably the prettiest dishes we’ve seen in Puerto Rico so far!
Breakfast à la Taino
Breakfast is served only à la carte, but you have a decent selection of dishes. Flies outside might be annoying and the veggies are scarce, but otherwise, our mornings started well.
On one of the days, we started with a very special breakfast experience! The indigenous Taino community had a tradition of gathering for breakfast served by the grandmother, and we had the elevated experience Desayuno del Campo, where the same traditional ingredients and concepts were used.
Our experience started with traditionally brewed coffee, Cafe Cola’o, some guava and pineapple juice, freshly baked bread, Pan de Agua, with butter, and a selection of fruits. It was followed by La Cremita de Coa, consisting of cream of wheat, cinnamon, coconut shavings, and acerola marmalade (this felt like a traditional Russian breakfast, sweet semolina porridge!). Finally, we had Empanadillas (deep-fried empanadas with beef and pizza filling), Revoltillo de Yiya (scrambled eggs with local jamonina sausage and malanga hash), and Longaniza de Puertorro (local pork longaniza served with apio purée, cilantro mojo, chicharón dust, and a fried egg). The whole experience is served for two and lasts over an hour.
Spa Botanico
Spa Botanico is a spa located in our hotel, famous for its homage to Puerto Rican roots and traditions and its holistic approach to treatments.
This is a large, mostly outdoor complex of buildings where visitors can enjoy a hot pool, cold plunge pool, sauna, and outdoor and indoor treatments. Imagine spending some time in this paradise!
I had a spiced coconut scrub and a massage, and my treatment took place both outdoors on a bed and gorgeous open shower and indoors.
Yes, but…
Overall, our experience was enjoyable; however, there were a few downsides as well. The most frustrating one was the communication, which was far too slow (especially compared to European and Asian resorts of this kind): the 24/7 service is not really up to the title; it takes hours for them to reply (2-3 hours on average and up to 8 hours!). We also tried to book our experiences weeks in advance (it’s suggested to book them over a week in advance on their website), but eventually, we got the dates only upon arrival and only after a battle with a concierge. Besides that, unfortunately, the Wi-Fi is quite slow and doesn’t cover the entire territory. Finally, my injury during the hotel-arranged trip wasn’t addressed properly by them, and moreover, we had to pay almost in full for another tour I couldn’t attend.
Click to read more about the North America!
Hope you enjoyed my new article!
Best,
Anna xxx
