Pictures of the floating world

20 must-do’s in Colombo, Sri Lanka

By Anna Purpurpurpur

Colombo is the vibrant capital of Sri Lanka, formerly known as Ceylon. You might need just a day or two here before you move on to admire the amazing natural sights of the country.

Make sure you check the timings of the temples and museums in advance, as not all of them are open every day!

1. Learn About the History of Colombo

Colombo hasn’t always been a capital city. The historical capital of Sri Lanka, where the local royalty was based, is Kandy, in the middle of the island (sadly, we didn’t have time to visit), and Galle was the principal sea port. Colombo was originally a small seaside village.

Colombo was a place where foreigners started to settle. First, in the 8th century, the Arabs arrived. In 1293, Marco Polo visited Sri Lanka on his way back to China and was amazed by it.

In the 16th century, the era of large European presence began in Colombo and the country overall. In 1505, the Portuguese, under Dom Lourenço de Almeida, arrived and controlled the trade up to the late 17th century. They established the first fort in the seaside city of Colombo, but it hasn’t survived to this day.

Next came the Dutch, invited by the Kingdom of Kandy to help them fight off the Portuguese. Eventually, the Dutch colonized the country, and you can still see many of their architectural sights standing in Colombo and other locations. Finally, due to large problems the Dutch faced back in Europe, they transferred control of Sri Lanka (known as Ceylon back then) to the British in the early 19th century.

Eventually, the locals staged a coup against their royalty and agreed to go under British rule, although there were later rebellions against the British too. This put an end to over 2000 years of local rule by the Sinhalese kingdom, with Kandy as its capital, and marked the beginning of Colombo as the main city in the country. The British controlled the whole country from 1817 to 1948, when Sri Lanka gained independence.

2. Observe the City from Lotus Tower

The Lotus Tower is an unmissable landmark of modern Colombo. It was completed in 2019, opened only in 2022, and has since become a symbol of the country! It’s 351.5 meters high (making it one of the tallest towers in Asia!) with magnificent lotus petals glittering at night with various colors.

The Lotus Tower stands on the shore of Beira Lake, which used to be connected to the Indian Ocean, thus making the Portuguese fort sitting inside the freshly-made ‘island’ safe. You can still spot the Kayman Gate around the Pettah market – the lake was inhabited with crocodiles, hence the name!

First, we visited the Pixel Bloom, an immersive installation about the history of Sri Lanka and its main sites and heritage: the lion flag, Baila Kapirinna music, some important objects now located in the National Museum, and so on.

After that, we went directly to the observation deck: an open platform located right behind the lotus petals. The views of the city were superb!

3. Pay a Visit to the National Museum of Colombo

The National Museum of Colombo was initially established as the Colombo Museum in 1877 by Sir William Henry Gregory, the British Governor of Ceylon at that time (you can see his statue at the museum’s entrance).

The architect behind the project was James George Smither, and WapchiMarikar was the one whose company realized it. The museum showcases the past of Ceylon, including objects that belonged to the Sinhalese royal family, such as the throne; local arts and crafts; arms, including the Kasthané Sword; a numismatic collection; and famous sculptures starting from the Anuradhagama period (spot the Toluwila statue at the entrance and the bronze Bodhisattva Avalokitesvara).

The Natural History Museum is located within the same premises but in a separate building.

4. Spot Buddha at Viharamahadevi Park

Right opposite the National Museum, you can find the oldest public park in Colombo. Formerly called ‘Victoria Park’ after Queen Victoria, as it was established during British rule, it was renamed after Queen Viharamahadevi, the mother of King Dutugamunu. Don’t miss the giant Buddha statue there!

5. Pop Inside the Dutch Museum

The Dutch Museum might be small, but it will definitely culturally enrich your presence in the Sri Lankan capital!

It is housed in an old, restored residence of Thomas Van Ree, the Dutch Governor in 1692-1697. It was later used as a seminary and a school, a private residence, a British hospital, the Petaling Post Office, and eventually a museum in 1977.

The Dutch Museum showcases the Dutch arrival to Ceylon, architectural sights built by them, and everyday life. Come and find here the schemes of over five dozen of the city forts they’ve built, the arms, ship models, jewelry, and furniture used back in time.

6. Get Lost at Pettah Market

Pettah Market is an essential attraction in Colombo, even if you can’t tolerate hectic traffic and some litter.

It occupies the Pettah district of the city, close to the city port, hence the name.

Yes, it’s not for the faint-hearted, but you can spot all sorts of things on sale here: textiles, jewelry, tableware, fresh fruits and veggies (just look at these pineapples, papayas, and gourds!), salted fish – and there’s also a floating part overlooking the Beira Lake.

The place is photogenic indeed if you like lively and vibrant shots!

Among the monuments to see are the Old Town Hall, the Red Mosque, Kayman Gate bell, and Khan Clock Tower (I cover some in detail below).

7. Have a Free Tour Around the Jami-Ul-Alfar Mosque

The Red Mosque, officially called Jami-Ul-Alfar Mosque, is one of the most impressive buildings in Colombo today.

It was designed by Habibu Lebbe Saibu Lebbe and built in 1908-1909. You can visit it with a tour led by one of the mosque staff.

We waited for about 40 minutes from the time we arrived until the actual tour started. Both ladies and gentlemen were given appropriate covers at the entrance; everyone was super friendly and welcoming.

The tour takes about 30 minutes, and you can see the mosque from the inside, including the hall for prayers! If you wonder what this intricate design signifies, we were told that both the colorsand the patterns were inspired by pomegranate, a fruit occupying a special place in Islam.

Visitors are also allowed to visit the roof, and the views from there allow you to admire the amazing architectural highlights of the mosque itself and spot some other landmarks of Colombo, such as the Lotus Tower, Pettah Market, and the port.

8. Pass by Old City Hall

Once at the Pettah Market, don’t miss the Old City Hall! It definitely gives off a vibe of former magnificence, but now it definitely calls for some reconstruction work. Inside, we spotted fire engine machines and offices on the ground floor.

The building’s construction was carried out by Wapchi Marikar, who also built a bunch of other gorgeous official edifices, including the National Museum.

9. Explore the Dutch Hospital

When the Dutch built the hospital in the 17th century for their militaries and merchants, little did they know that in a few centuries, it would remain one of the main spots for expats for centuries to come!

In 2012, the building was completely renovated and now has cafes and restaurants, including the Ministry of Crab, souvenir and gem shops. Come here in the evening when the whole place comes alive.

10. Walk Inside Independence Memorial Hall

The Independence Memorial Hall, located on Independence Square within the Cinnamon Gardens, is one of the most important landmarks of modern Sri Lanka. 

Modelled after the Palace Celebration Hall in Kandy, the former capital where the Sinhalese royalty lived, it marks the restoration of Sri Lankan sovereignty after a few centuries of European rule in 1948.

We spotted a snake whisperer close to it. He had two king cobras with him and played for them just like you’ve seen in old books! Of course, this was a tourist attraction, and the poor cobras had their venomous teeth extracted; however, it was really interesting from a heritage point of view.

11. Buy Souvenirs at One Galle Face Mall

A quick visit to the One Galle Face Mall is a must when you’re in Colombo! It opened in 2019.

The mall is made pretty well, and there are lots of international and local stores, a food hall, and a bookstore. It’s a good place for stocking up on souvenirs like tea, gems, masks, and t-shirts with elephants!

12. Drink Some Proper Ceylon Tea

We absolutely loved T-lounge and bar by Dilmah, a Sri Lankan tea company I’m sure you’ve heard of (I’ve grown up drinking their teas)!

They serve pure teas, tea cocktails and tea mocktails, tea-infused desserts, and some savory food too. We visited their store and cafe at the One Galle Mall, but they have other spots around the city if you’d like!

13. Stroll Around Galle Face Green

Galle Face Green is a popular seaside lawn area where locals love to fish, stroll, and fly kites.

The promenade was laid here during British rule and used for various sport activities. There’s also a long pole with the Sri Lankan flag, a lion, and a few cannons. We also saw a sign that turtles nest here.

Sadly, it seemed like a few days of New Year holidays had taken its toll on it because the area was very littered, but it was all cleared up the next morning.

14. Find Sri Lankan Coffee

Did you know that in the past, Sri Lanka was famous for its coffee too, not only for its tea? It was introduced in the 17th century, flourished under British rule, and was similarly important as tea production. It was one of the top 3 world coffee producers alongside Brazil and Indonesia.

Unfortunately, the vast majority of coffee plants were destroyed in 1869 by a fungal disease called Hemileia vastatrix. Still, the Sri Lankan coffee culture is slowly being restored, and there are some attempts to do so. For instance, you can come to Whight & Co Café to try James Whight’s Ruby Harvest! The Ruby Harvest is the first commercial, single-origin, premier quality coffee crop of Sri Lanka (Sri Amma 100% Arabica coffee)! The owner’s family replanted the original coffee plantation in Matturata Valley with coffee plants in 2001. And I can confirm that their coffee and desserts are superb.

15. Explore Hindu Temples of Colombo

Colombo is bursting with Hindu temples! The ones with particular Tamil architecture are called ‘Kovil’, and you can easily spot them on the map.

Some of them are open, some don’t allow tourists to enter, others are open only at certain periods of time – and I found it impossible to check the timetables in English in advance. Most likely, you can retrieve the right info only on the site on the day of your visit.

So, I’ll just list the temples below, and good luck to you: Gangaramaya Temple, Old and New Kathiresan Kovils Hindu temples, Sri Kailasanathar Swami Devasthanam (the oldest Hindu temple in Colombo), and Sri Ponnambala Vaneswarar Kovil.

16. Hop Cafes

I’ve already mentioned the T-lounge by Dilmah and John Wright’s Ruby Harvest cafes, and I’d highly recommend you visit the Sapphyr lounge, a cafe with desserts at the Shangri-La hotel. They serve their own blend of Ceylon tea, tea mocktails, and a great tea with condensed milk named after the Pettah Market. And their desserts were fantastic too!

There are two other places we absolutely loved. One is the Gallery Cafe on Paradise Road (it’s actually very conveniently located close to the Ruby Harvest one) – it’s a very stylish and tranquil space adjacent to a real art gallery.

And finally, the Kumbuk Cafe close to the National Museum is one of the most stylish cafes I’ve seen in Sri Lanka: with its tropical plants and colorful furniture, it had some Ubud vibes!

The food was pretty good, but don’t believe them that some dishes are not really spicy: they are super spicy anyway.

17. Take a Snap of Colombo Fort Clock Tower

The Colombo Fort Clock Tower, dating back to 1865 and deactivated in 1952, is one of the most prominent architectural buildings of the Colombo Fort district (there is no fort left there now). 

Its beautiful lantern and a clock are one of the most prominent examples of British presence in Colombo.

18. Spot Galbokka Lighthouse

The Galbokka Lighthouse, operated by the Ports Authority of Sri Lanka, is 29 meters tall and has a distinctive black and white pattern on one side. It opened in 1952 (as I understand, after the Colombo Fort Clock Tower was deactivated) and is located near the Colombo Harbour. Unfortunately, it’s not open to the public, but you can admire it from the outside. During national celebrations, you can watch the traditional gun salute here!

This area is worth exploring even with the Maritime Museum closed, as this is where the old fort was located (see below).

19. Visit Wolvendaal Church

The Wolvendaal Church is the old Dutch church of the Christian Reformed Church of Sri Lanka, completed in 1757, and one of the most important heritage buildings of that period. However, it was closed during our visit.

20. Explore the Area of Colombo Fort in Detail if You Have Time

Although you can’t actually visit the old fort of Colombo as there’s little left of it, it’s still worth admiring some amazing architecture of the last two centuries left here.

You might want to spot the gorgeous buildings of the Grand Oriental Hotel and The Galle Face Hotel, founded in 1864, the most famous historical European hotel in the city; the old Parliament Building, housing the Presidential Secretariat today; and beautiful red-coloured Cargills.

Also try the Sri Lanka Ports Authority Maritime Museum, occupying a former Dutch prison dating back to 1676 (it was closed on the day of our visit). If you’d like architectural sights like this, also see the Colombo Fort Railway Station built in 1917!

Have More Time?

Sadly, we didn’t manage to visit all the museums we planned because some are open only for tours or were simply closed. However, you might still consider visiting them: Geoffrey Bawa’s House number 11 (probably he’s the most famous Sri Lankan architect) and, as I’ve already mentioned, the Maritime Museum.

Where to Stay in Colombo: Shangri-La Colombo

For our few days in Colombo, we decided to stay in one of the most luxurious hotels the Sri Lankan capital can offer: Shangri-La Colombo.

The hotel opened in 2017 and is located in a perfect place on a seashore by Galle Face Green and linked to the One Galle Face Mall. The skincare they serve is from the famous Spa Ceylon, a worldwide known chain of Ayurvedic products rooted in Sri Lankan culture.

And just look at this view from our room! And if you’d like to elevate it more, come to the lounge area at the top of the building.

They serve breakfast in the beautiful Central Cafe – it has a great variety of cuisines: Sri Lankan, Indian, pan-Asian, and Western. As I understand, this is the location of one of the suicide bombings of Easter 2019 – nothing would remind you of that now.

We also adored their Lobby Cafe with live music.

See my other blogs about Asia.

Hope you liked my new blog,
Yours,
Anna xxx

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