Casablanca is the largest city in Morocco, a busy port and a backdrop for a famous WWII movie of the same name starring Humphrey Bogart and Ingrid Bergman. Many tourists skip it, but we decided to give it a go.
We left with mixed feelings because this is a city of contrasts where the historical buildings are slowly falling into decay, and at the same time, modern private villas and landmarks really impress with their richness.
It was also the only city in Morocco where we had someone try to pickpocket us on the street (but thankfully without success). Overall, I’m extremely glad we visited, but I doubt we will return there in the near future. Let’s see what is there to pay attention to in Casablanca!
Important: As Casablanca is a port facing the Atlantic Ocean and is located in the north of Africa, it’s usually colder here than in other parts of Morocco. Take an extra layer of clothing with you just in case!
1. Sacred Heart Cathedral
The Sacred Heart Cathedral, or Église du Sacré-Cœur, is a former cathedral in Casablanca that opened in 1930. This beautiful white building, erected in Art Deco style, was a masterpiece of religious art, but it stopped functioning as a church once Morocco got its independence in 1956 and was even looted.
Thankfully, now it’s open for visits from time to time. It’s absolutely empty inside apart from the marvelous stained glass windows featuring the flags of other Catholic countries as well as France. During our visit, there were stalls for marathon promotion and registration.
2. Arab League Park
To the side of the Sacred Heart Cathedral, you will find Arab League Park, a magnificent public park with palm trees, fountains, and green lawns.
You can also spot some historic arches: these are elements of a historic fort, which were transported here by the French during their protectorate period.
3. Mohammed V Square
Next, proceed to the Mohammed V Square: this is one of the most important administrative centers of the city, with a magnificent fountain and gorgeous buildings framing it.
The square was established by the French in 1916: spot here the Court of First Instance built in Moroccan style; Bank Al-Maghrib, the central post office; and Wilaya of Grand Casablanca with a tall clock tower, a former town hall now housing the administration of the city.
On the site of the old French Theatre, which wasn’t reconstructed but demolished instead, there is now a new Grand Theatre that opened just a few years ago. This modern building goes surprisingly well with the surroundings. Also, spot the equestrian statue of Hubert Lyautey, which was moved from its original place to a less central position.
4. Central Marketplace
The Central Marketplace, or Marché central, sitting on the main artery of the city, Boulevard Mohammed V, was built by the French in 1917-1920 with a facade in neo-Moroccan style.
It remains a farmers’ market; however, it’s clearly focused on tourists now as well. The main produce here is seafood and fish, although there are some souvenirs sold as well. Oyster bars are another specialty of Casablanca – you can try some at the market too!
5. Sqala Restaurant and Sqala Fort
This restaurant – which we sincerely recommend – occupies the territory inside the historical fort of the same name, Sqala Fort, facing the ocean.
It’s located right in the middle of the Marina area. Originally, this fort was built by the Portuguese, who established their settlement here in the early 16th century and called it Casa Branca (it became Casablanca later). The first inhabitants of the area were the Phoenicians, and their city was called Anfa.
Head to La Sqala Restaurant for some delicious desserts: Pastilla de fleurs d’orange, nougat glacé, and giant macarons; or some proper Moroccan food like tagines and couscous (we returned there twice for it). Not far away there’s the Rick’s cafe – a modern nod to the Casablanca movie. The cafe opened in 2004 and recreates the interior of the movie which was shot actually in a studio in the USA in 1942.
6. Mellah
The Mellah is the Jewish district of Casablanca, which actually starts close to the Sqala Fort. It’s not inhabited by Jews anymore, just as any other Mellah we’ve seen, but there are still remnants of their cultural imprint here.
The Ettedgui Synagogue and museum were recently restored – sadly, we didn’t manage to visit it. Close by, in the Medina of Casablanca, you can find Ould El Hamra, a mosque dating to the 18th century, and together with the synagogue and the now-closed Church of San Buenaventura (which is an educational center right now), they represented three religious institutions. The Church of San Buenaventura was founded in the late 19th century, but now even the cross is removed from its roof.
7. Old Medina
Old Medina is a buzzing souk area – but it’s calmer than the markets of Fez or Marrakesh.
Vendors here sell everything you would expect from a Moroccan souk: spices, arts and crafts goodies, fresh veggies, and souvenirs. You can start exploring it from the Jama Souk plaza/United Nations square or from the Sqala Fort: spot Coupol Zevaco and the abandoned Excelsior hotel that used to be one of the best in the city, and even Saint-Exupéry spent some time here. Now this Art Deco legend has just one star.
As you go further from the souk towards the sea, the area becomes less lively and touristy. In the past, the seaside part of the Medina was very important as it was the main gateway for sea trade and the embassies of many countries.
The Quartier des Consuls which emerged in the 19th century used to be an important diplomatic area a century ago, now feels abandoned but you can still spot the buildings where the consulates resided (for instance, Germany, Spain and others).
Besides that, a local holy man, Sidi Bou Smara, resided here in one of the courtyards and prayed under the tree in the 10th century – and you can still see his mausoleum here protected by a fence. Finally, it’s the birthplace of one of the national fighters for freedom, Muhammad Zarqtuni, who organized a terrorist act in the Casablanca central market against the French in 1953. However, this area feels a bit abandoned.
8.Hassan II Mosque
The Hassan II Mosque is the largest mosque in Morocco and the most recognised modern symbol of the country. Its minaret is the second tallest in the world, just after Algeria’s Djamaa el Djazaïr!
The mosque officially opened in 1993 and is a real masterpiece created by craftsmen from all over the world. Its design was proposed by French architect Michel Pinseau: his idea was to create a mosque floating between the ocean and the land, as the building sits on the shore.
Some Italian marble and Venetian glass details in the interior elevate the decorative style to an international level, and local artists created interior elements as well.
There are some surprising modern twists: the roof can be opened, a powerful laser from the minaret points towards Mecca, and there’s a parking space and hammam downstairs!
You can also pay a visit to a small museum where the arts and craft techniques used in the mosque’s decorative style are explained and showcased.
Important: You can go inside the mosque only with an official guided tour: there are just a few throughout the day, so we came here in the morning to buy the tickets first and then to join the group. The tour took about an hour, and you have to wear clothes covering your knees and shoulders (no head covering is required for women, and there’s no need to rent an abaya – a very relaxed take on visiting a mosque!).
9.Notre-Dame-de-Lourdes
Notre-Dame-de-Lourdes Church is a church built in the 1950s shortly before Morocco’s independence. Although it doesn’t have as many parishioners as in the past, it’s a fantastic architectural gem everyone should visit while in Casablanca.
Its stained glass windows were created by the famous French artist Gabriel Loire, who developed his special techniques of thicker and uneven glass, which diffuses light in a very particular, unusual way. If you visit on a clear day with the sun shining through the glass, you will get the most magical view ever.
The concrete frame of the church is very unusual as well. There’s also an artificial grotto where you can light a candle just outside the church.
10.Royal Palace
As in other big cities of Morocco, the King has his Royal Palace in Casablanca as well, and it’s located in the Habous area. It’s the second most important royal residence after the one in Rabat, and many important events took place here.
It’s not open to the public, but if you visit with a guided group, you can enter the square in front of the Royal Palace and observe the main gate from a very close distance.
11.Quartier Habous
Quartier Habous is frequently called the new Medina because it was developed under the French protectorate in the 1920s-1930s.
It was designed by the French, but respecting the traditional Moroccan market style, and you can still find a souk there with local merchants selling all sorts of books, souvenirs, slippers, leather objects, and so on.
Make sure to stop at the Patisserie Habous, a family-run business open since the development of this area. It’s one of the oldest places to try local cookies in Casablanca.
12.Mahkama of Pacha
Another landmark of Habous is the Mahkama of Pacha. It’s an administrative building erected in the 1940s, and it’s also considered a marvel of modern Moroccan architecture.
We’ve been told that it’s closed for visitors, but I presume that if you come with a local guide who knows the guards, you can actually sneak inside because we saw a few tourist groups doing this.
13.Art Deco of Casablanca
I felt so sad walking around Casablanca: all the magnificent Art Deco buildings built by the French are in ruins and just left there slowly degrading, with no signs of repairs going on. It must’ve looked truly magnificent back in the day – Casablanca used to be the capital of the Art Deco movement in the early 20th century!
Only a small fraction of them have been restored and used for public means, such as the ones from the square of Mohammed V I just showed you above. But if you look closely you’ll notice that many are abandoned, and I’m afraid local people are still living in others in visibly terrible conditions.
To explore such buildings, you can walk around the central market area towards Mohammed V Square – there are plenty of them. Look for Avenue Lalla Yacout, Boulevard de Paris, Boulevard Mohammed V, Street Mohamed Diouri, and others. We walked there with a guide to see more of such architecture – you might want to consider this option too.
14. Edith Piaf Links
If you’re a fan of Edith Piaf, like me, you can also spot the house of the love of her life, Marcel Cerdan, a French boxer who tragically died in an airplane crash.
Although he was born in Algeria, his family, including his lawful wife, lived here in Morocco in this house, and upon his death, Edith Piaf was invited to grieve here too. Cinema Rialto is actually an Art Deco theatre where Edith Piaf performed in Casablanca.
15. Stay at Four Seasons Casablanca
We stayed in the most luxurious hotel in Casablanca: the Four Seasons.
Four Seasons Casablanca sits on Boulevard de la Corniche overlooking the Atlantic Ocean. The property itself is very stylish and modern. The interior is decorated with traditional patterns and looks inviting and photogenic.
Our room features a contemporary take on traditional Moroccan ornaments mixed with European minimalistic style. Unfortunately, we had a bad first impression of the hotel as my passport was lost by the staff at the reception, but it was later recovered and the hotel apologised rectifying the situation.
There is an outdoor pool, and you can also have a proper indulgent spa experience here (for instance, I had an argan seed facial with a rose mask – a proper homage to Moroccan heritage).
We also had a few meals at their restaurant, which had a great selection of both Moroccan and Western dishes to try prepared in the most traditional way.
The breakfast area opens up to the magnificent ocean and the lighthouse, and the breakfast selection was very decent.
Close to the hotel, there is the Anfa mall with a supermarket, food court, and numerous international shops and cafes such as Starbucks, Costa, Xiaomi, Tommy Hilfiger, M&S, Intimissimi, and so on. Besides that, there is an area with outdoor cafes and access to the beach.
Read more blogs about Morocco!
Hope you liked my blog,
Yours,
Anna xxx
